Yes. Electric fencing delivers a short, sharp shock that teaches horses to respect the boundary - it doesn't injure them. In fact, it’s often safer than rigid fences, which can cause serious harm if a horse runs into or leans on them.

Electric fences are more cost-effective, quicker to install, and require less maintenance. They deter animals through psychological barrier, reducing wear and tear and keeping your fencing in better condition longer.

Match energiser power to your fence size and usage. For small paddocks, a mains-powered energiser gives consistent output. If you need temporary or portable fencing, battery or solar-powered units are ideal.

A single line of visible tape or 2–3 strands of rope/wire is usually enough. Always include at least one electrified strand, and space them to prevent gaps - a visible fence helps prevent horses from charging at speed .

A solid earth setup is critical. Proper grounding ensures the electric pulse travels through the horse, not the soil. A basic rule: use one earth rod per energiser joule output - e.g., for a 0.6J energiser, use one or two rods.

Ideally, check the fence when it’s wet - moisture highlights shorts and voltage loss. Regular monitoring helps catch vegetation contact or damaged insulators before they reduce effectiveness.

Yes - by using insulated standoff insulators to attach a hot wire parallel to the fence, you can deter cribbing, rubbing, or jumping without compromising the existing structure.

Use lightweight tape or netting with portable posts. Set up adjacent to a permanent fence and energise it as usual. Practice makes perfect - set it up once at home so you can do it quickly in the field.